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Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain the skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of a facial and during body treatments at spas.1 Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means. People of non-Caucasian descent generally see better results from exfoliation, due to their faster skin production.2 Some commentators recommended frequent exfoliations, even daily during the winter months.3
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History
Credit is given to the ancient Egyptians for the practice of exfoliation.45 In the Middle Ages, wine was used as a chemical exfoliant, with tartaric acid as the active agent.4 In Asia, the practice of exfoliation started hundreds of years ago.6
Importance
New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic.7 During their 30 day journey,7 they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. During aging, and after menopause for women,8 the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts.Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave.9 It is possible to overly exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.1 Dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.10
Types
Exfoliation is achieved through either mechanical or chemical means.
Mechanical
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive.1 Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs, and brushes.911 Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. 12
The exfoliating ingredient in Olay's body wash, and similar big brand products, are tiny particles of polyethylene, which are a hazard to marine life (see marine debris).13
Chemical
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a dermatologist, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away.1 This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.14
With hair removal
Some methods of hair removal also exfoliate the skin.
- Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regime.
- Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
- Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the face washes the face and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.
Promotion
In popular media, exfoliants are advertised as treatments which promote beauty, youthful appearance, or health.9
Disadvantages
The greatest disadvantage to exfoliation is the high price of some of the products and methods used to achieve it.15 Exfoliation will lead to some initial redness to the skin. Near the end of chemical peels, the skin will frost, with colors varying from a bright white to gray on the skin surface.4
Plastic beads often used as exfoliants do not biodegrade. They are washed into rivers, and then the oceans, where they remain for a very long time. While superficially pretty (they are often referred to as "mermaid's tears") they amplify up food chains, and will kill any animal that ingests enough to block its digestive tract.16
See also
References
- ^ a b c d Anitra Brown. What is Exfoliation? Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Joe Ball. New Skin - Via Exfoliation. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Emily Gilbert. How to prevent dry, wintertime skin: The benefits of regular exfoliation. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ a b c Raymond T Kuwahara, MD. HISTORY OF CHEMOEXFOLIATION. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ NewApeel. History of Aesthetic Exfoliation? Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Dr. Rock Positano. Getting Under Your Skin. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ a b Scott Norton, Ph.D. Skin Renewal: Breaking the Ties That Bind. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Michelle Occhipinto and Audrey Kunin, M.D. Four Easy Steps to Skin Care. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ a b c Alex Muniz. Exfoliation: The Secret To Healthy Skin. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Mama'sHealth.com. Exfoliation 101. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Cathy Wong. How to Give Yourself a Dry Brush Exfoliation. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Dr. John Gray. The World of Skin Care. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Rosner, Hillary (2008-06-16). "Scrubbing Out Sea Life: Exfoliating plastic beads feel good — unless you live in the ocean.". Slate.
- ^ Wdxcyber.com. Facial Skin Exfoliation. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ Fine Skin Care Products.com. Microdermabrasion. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
- ^ "Plastics 'poisoning world's seas'". BBC News (7 December 2006). Retrieved on 2008-04-01.
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- This page was last modified on 16 November 2008, at 05:47.
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